Your recent creative show of clothes and jewellery was remarkable. Will you cooperate with the Nový Bor glass works AJETO again in the future?
We jointly prepared an inspirational collection of designer jewellery pieces and are working on a limited set of wearable jewellery, which will be presented in Kampa Museum, on 26th February. It will be accompanied by Dušan Šimánek’s photographs, and a glass maker’s oven will be placed in the Museum yard for visitors to witness at first-hand the process of jewellery making.
Do you like working with glass?
I have always been intrigued by glass. I designed smaller pieces for the companies Preciosa and Bižuterie Jablonec, but always wanted to make bigger ones. It was the AJETO company that eventually gave form to my ideas. Petr Novotný is a world recognised glassmaker, and working with him was a great experience.
Working with clay, glass, textile and leather – all this can be artistic work. Why have you chosen textiles? Was it closer to you than other materials?
Originally I wanted to design theatre costumes. I always knew that I wanted to be part of the art scene. My art work is composed of items made of metal as well as paper and other unconventional materials. Aside from that, I also produce wearable garments for my female customers; of course, most of them are made from textiles. I enjoy working with textiles, it is an interesting material and I like the scent of textile factories. I am somewhere in between zones as I have always designed functional as well as original artistic pieces.
A little bit of sculpture, a little bit of craft...do you need both of them to be able to express yourself fully?
One provokes the other. I prefer designing the more creative pieces though.
In the times of our grandmothers, ladies were elegantly attired having matching shoes, gloves, hats and handbags. And of course jewellery couldn’t be missing. Would you like to design such “from head to toes” sets?
Of course we prepare such outfits. I cooperate with a team of make-up artists, visagists, and hair-dressers. For functional items, I use, amongst others, leather. I like making leather items as leather is one of my most favourite materials; recently we have been preparing a few coat designs.
During the previous regime, many Czech women had their clothes made by private dressmakers using e.g. Burda or other foreign magazines for designs. Do you think that dressmakers and handicrafts in general don’t flourish as much nowadays as they used to?
Handicrafts are dying out and some of them have completely ceased to exist. Laces, for example, used to be done manually, and these days they are manufactured. I promote handwork on my items, e.g. buttonholes are handmade. I have a high appreciation for handicrafts, and it is a shame that currently the contemporary world doesn’t favour them. Take for example, glassmakers, what wonders they can come up with... It is unfortunate for the Czech glassworks to be closing down.
You often work abroad. How do Czech women compare? Do they dress better or worse when compared e.g. with France, Italy and England?
There is a difference. You can still feel that we didn’t live in very good conditions for quite a while. At first, it was the war, followed by the Communist regime. Nothing is without consequences, and it was reflected in people’s mentality. Culture and sophistication almost disappeared which, as a result, influenced fashion. I don’t think that it is important to wear designer clothes and always be fashionable. What is essential though is the aesthetics.
Do you think that this can be reversed?
This can be done only with the help of education but it will take a while, a few generations.
People are like monkeys, they copy what they saw in childhood at home...
Exactly, we are influenced by our families to a great extent. I know the score, only a few people who have a well-developed aesthetic sensitivity. There is rather big gap between Czechs and the western world, even though the situation has been improving. Beside this, we shouldn’t forget to distinguish between cities and small towns and villages. But this is the same everywhere in the world. However, we are also lagging behind regarding decency, empathy, tolerance and fair play. I am sorry to be so critical, but it is true.
After the revolution, when things could have been changed, the fashion was set by stall holders and cheap off-the-peg clothes and imitations.
I see this as a big problem. Nevertheless, it is quite a good solution to buy one quality timeless piece in a boutique and combine it with older or cheaper items. I do think that it is not so much a question of one's financial situation but of aesthetic taste. This is, however, something a person has to have inside him/her. Part of it can be learned but not completely.
At the Janáček Academy of Music and Performing Arts and at the Faculty of Fine Arts, you lead classes of creative fashion design, and your summer workshops have been running at Bolek Polívka’s farm for six years. Many universities have been, in vain, trying to win you over to teach at their institutions. It wasn’t until last October that you became Head of the Atelier of Fashion Design at the Academy of Arts, Crafts and Design. Why?
It was the third offer that I decided to accept. I hesitated for quite a while as I felt that I would lose my freedom. The time was ripe. It took me quite long to decide though. One day I would tell myself that it would be great, the day after – no way. Up and down. Various people were proposing different solutions until eventually I told myself,” No harm in trying.” I found additional free space in the house where my Studio LR and gallery are, and with the support of the school, I set up a students’ studio there. The place has amazing vibes as opposed to the old one which was set in unsuitable and old premises. Environment is educational! I was able to buy new sewing machines, brought books from my collection, and the students can now work in beautiful environment with a great view. The job is fulfilling, I enjoy it very much and think that the results are good as well. My students are smart.
In the past, you wrote that subjects that depend on talent (art, music and PE) shouldn’t be marked in school. How do you evaluate the work of your students?
Each person has a different point of view. It is quite easy to evaluate, for example, running as you can see how long it takes. It is worse for me. If a teacher works hard, is active and students can see his/her work, it is certainly an inspiration for them and the teacher can become a role model. What is quintessential is to support their personality. Because I enjoy psychology I try to see a student as a whole person. For example, when I see that someone is not good in creative thinking, I don’t try to force it on him/her, but support him/her to do something else. I want everyone to be unique, not to copy others but come up with their own signature work. We will see...this is just the beginning of the journey...
What inspired you to set up Studio LR and what does it focus on?
I wanted to support young talented designers and give them space to introduce their work to the world. When beautiful premises were offered to me, I decided to carry my idea out and founded Studio LR. I am surrounded by a team of people, and without them the studio would not work. I would also like to thank everyone who supported me financially in this project. Every Thursday of the month we hold opening exhibitions. The current exhibition was already the forty-fifth one. We discover talented young people, designers, fashion designers... Working with young people is a great trade off for both sides. They give me energy, I give them my experience.
What are your plans for the coming year?
The number of my plans is increasing and so is my energy. First of all, I want to take my students to their first semester examination. In September, I am exhibiting in New York, and want to continue to cooperate with the company AJETO. At the moment, we are focusing on designing outfits for dancers and performers of the opening Czech ball in Brussels. I am planning a few trips abroad with my students. Recently we have visited an exhibition in Antwerp, and are going to London soon. I also have some big orders, mainly for Lucie Bílá.
Photo: Oskar Exner
