Over the centuries there have been almost regular changes between sense and sensibility, rationality and mysticism. Spiritual Gothic as in the Renaissance was followed by realism with its focus on humanity and reason. Afterwards, Baroque brought a move towards spirituality only to be followed later on by intellectual Rococo, subsequently to be followed by completely rational Classicism and Empire trends. René Descartes was a significant philosopher of Classicism. The main idea of the era was that everything can be learned with the use of intellect and that intellect and strict logic can uncover the essence of everything. This approach is also apparent in architecture and art. Classicism brings a return to classic styles of ancient Greece and Rome. At the beginning the style was combined with Baroque and Rococo ornamentation, later on all “frilly” bits disappeared and stricter lines prevailed. The second half of 18th century is a time of the so called style of Lewis XIV. Simultaneously, urban influence is growing with the coming of the industrial revolution. Buildings are designed on the basis of exact calculations, the first cast iron constructions appeared, there are less churches and castles and more “utility” buildings. There was also increase of greenery in towns, gardens and parks that were being opened to the public. Classicism gradually merged into Empire, the so called emperor’s style that was developed during the reign of emperor Napoleon Bonaparte and that was used up to the first half of the 19th century. It is based on ancient style and its main features were austerity and simplicity that was inspired by the oldest Greek style of architecture, Doric order.
These, to a certain extent, similar styles were joined by Romanticism with its freedom, its eclectic affinity for exoticism and art from other cultures. Landscape designed parks have nothing in common with the geometrical Baroque and Rococo gardens. Artificial caves, sometimes even with a hermit became very popular, ruins evoking the middle ages and similarly designed Gothic Revival churches were developed, official buildings and other architecture increased. Later on we can see the repetition of many other styles and buildings that were built in the Renaissance Revival and Baroque Revival styles. For these styles of architecture we use the general term Historism.
Architecture
Classicist and later Empire decoration stemmed from the art of the ancient world. A typical feature was an oval with portrait of an emperor, framed in alluring ribbons, rosettes, triglyphs or garlands on flat facades that were divided by pilasters. Other features were richly decorated gables that were above windows and entrance portals often supplemented with an ellipse shaped window sometimes placed above doors. Roof gables often had a triangular shape and general impression of facades of buildings reminiscent of the architecture of a Roman arch of triumph.
A fundamental Prague Classicist building is Nostic Theatre, today called Stavovské divadlo (Estates Theatre) that is to be found on Ovocny (Fruit) Market. Count Nostic–Rienek had it built as an expression of resistance against the emperor’s Vienna. There is a sign on the Theatre saying Patriae et Musis (For Homeland and Muses). The building has a rectangular shape, is symmetrical and it’s capped with tympanun. The Theatre became famous in 1787 when it staged W. A. Mozart’s opera The Wedding of Figaro and in October of the same year there was even a first world appearance of the famous opera Don Giovanni. On the occasion of the Czech coronation of emperor Leopold II in 1791, another Mozart’s opera had its premiere here – La clemenza di Tito. In 1834 the Czech song “Kde domov můj?” (Where is My Home?) was played here for the first time, it was a part of the comedy Fidlovačka aneb Žádný hněv a žádná rvačka (Fidlovačka, Or No Anger And No Brawl). This song later became a national anthem of the Czech Republic.
Another example is House U Hybernů that used to be an exhibition place. Let’s also mention Platýz house close to Národní třída that was allegedly the first tenement house in Prague. In any case, it was later on rebuilt to give a rise to the first balcony access house with flats for more tenants.
Classicist style influenced the new Prague district of Karlín, the Smetana Embankment, Slovanský dům (Slavic House) and swimming pool. With industrial and manufacturing development the number of citizens increased which demanded a change in housing development. We can see an increase in the numbers of hospitals, schools, official buildings and other public buildings. Example of palaces are, Palace Rohan (Rohanský palace) or the Kinsky Summerhouse (Villa) (vila Kinských) with garden. Newly opened were Chotek Gardens (Chotkovy sady), Hadovka, Klamovka estate and Cibulka. Also the Governor’s summer house in Stromovka was converted in Classicist style.
Art and Literature
Already in Rococo is a change towards more simple and melodious lines which is apparent, this trend culminates in Classicism. It is like if playful notes were dancing in the air and compositions are easy to understand. It is not an intellectual and spiritual music but it is clever and playful. Its main representatives were already mentioned W. A. Mozart, before him it was Josef Haydn and of Czech composers let’s name Josef Mysliveček. Later on the music world was enriched by Ludwig van Beethoven, however his music shows an already apparent shift to another era. Developments in literature are different – writing is influenced by intellect: Moliére, La Fontain, Goldoni, Diderot, Dafoe, Krylov – these writers put “common sense” at the forefront of their work. Literature is divided into low and high: fables, comedies and songs belong into “low” literature, odes, eposes and tragedies into “high” literature. From Czech authors let’s name one of the founders of Czech modern linguistics, Josefa Dobrovsky and a founder of the first poet group Jaroslav Puchmajer.
In sculpture persists an ancient cult of which a significant representative is A.Canova. His painterly counterpart was J. L. David. Czech painting is represented by František Tkadlík, sculpture art is to be seen mainly on gravestones. The era of Romanticism brought two significant painters, Antonín Navrátil and Josef Mánes, each of them creating an interesting and unique style.
Fashion
Classicism and Empire fashion was developing as fast as architecture. Ladies were slowly leaving behind hoop skirts and feathered hair decorations and were gradually getting used to light fabrics and almost transparent dresses that made them to catch cold in no time. Surprisingly the new style was at first accepted in conservative England. In France, Rococo was initially booed. Only few years later with the arrival of the French Revolution were the ancient style dresses to become part of the female wardrobe. Moralists were complaining that new, flyaway dresses highlighted too much body and have too low a neckline. Doctors were, however, pleased as it was certainly healthier than corsets. Because the pioneer of the new style was England, the new models were called á la anglaise. At that time even Paris was fascinated by the new style and in the end the new fashion found its way even in men’s wardrobe. During the French Revolution there was a short attempt to initiate a national costume but finally classical style won.
Women in Classicism and Empire
So called Chemise Cashion had a short life – it consisted of an ancient style robe with very low neck and hair style a la Diana, naked shoulders and Greek sandals. Afterwards a much braver fashion followed, so called naked fashion, sometimes referred to as á la sauvage. In fashion were short hair styles that were curled at the ends, á la Titus. Dress was simple and made out of expensive fabrics (muslin, fine silk), folded in ancient style and clasped at the shoulders with cameos and a belt that fastened the dress bellow the breasts. Clothes were accompanied by lots of jewellery. Light dresses had their victims as it was easy to catch a cold that could have developed in at those times fatal pneumonia. In Empire times came some changes that adapted the style of dressing to the climate of Central Europe. Low necks became smaller with more fur cloaks, long gloves reaching above the elbows and cashmere scarves. Hairstyles also changed into smooth buns divided by a centre parting.
Men in Classicism and Empire
The main difference from women cloths is that it isn’t that much influenced by ancient style but it is more a reflection of revolutionary protest. Trousers legs become longer, cocked hats appeared and certain dishevelment became fashionable. On the other hand, there is the “dandy” who is extremely fashion conscious and takes too much care about his appearance. This was changed in the Empire period when a good cut and elegance became more important than decorativeness. Long trousers were put in top–boots, colours of tail coats became darker, patterned vest remained in vogue. Shirts have high collar and necktie. Frizzy hair styles that hide the forehead and temple came into fashion. For daily use men wore top hats, for special occasion they wore a three–cornered hat.
Literature:
Illustrated Encyclopaedia of Fashion
Prague architecture
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